| If
you relocate your battery to the trunk, such as I did when I installed
my Vortech Power Cooler, NHRA rules require that you install an
electrical cutoff switch, sometimes referred to as a battery cutoff
switch. This switch must cut off all electrical
functions, including shutting off the ignition, turning off the fuel
pumps, etc. You may get lucky and get by without one, but all
it takes is one time that a tech either knows what they are doing or
decides to follow the rules. and they not allow you to run.
Here is a link to that information on the NHRA's website: http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html
Thanks to Buffhomer, a Corral member who
has a battery relocation how-to on his website. I used alot of his
information, and added some pictures of my own, as well as the tail
light idea for the cutoff switch lever. His link to the
trunk-mounted battery install (which includes the battery cutoff switch)
is here: http://buffhomer.corral.net/custom.html
Since I already had the battery relocated
to the trunk, here are the parts that I needed to install the battery
cutoff switch:
Flaming River Big Switch Lever Kit
(Summit - FLA-FR1003-2 - $78.95)
2 Taylor 1/O battery cables, 20 ft. length (Summit - TAY-21540-red or TAY-21542-black
- $45.00 each)
Also recommended:
200 amp fuse holder (PA Performance - 99-1040 -
$19.95)
200 amp fuse (PA Performance - 99-1038 - $5.00) Bought, but not installed
yet.
I already had my battery in
the trunk, so you can refer to his site if you are installing a
trunk-mounted battery. I'm only going to document the battery
cutoff switch here. In order for the cutoff switch to cut off all
electrical power, and not only the battery current, you must physically
separate the solenoid from the alternator and the battery. That
way, when power is cut off from the switch, power to all electrical
functions 'and' the computer are shut off. The car will then
die. Refer to Buffhomer's picture below for the basic layout of
the wiring.
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